CANDLE MAKING FOR MAGIC

As you no doubt already know, it's always better if you can make your own tools where magic is concerned. Why, because you're already starting the magical operation by undertaking the task of creating them. You have moved from everyday thoughts to magical ones and have started strengthening the intent to achieve the desired results of your workings.

Now admittedly not everyone can make an athame or create a chalice , but there are some simpler items that are well within the capabilities of most people. One of the most obvious is the candle. There is no finer way of doing candle magic than by creating the candle you are going to use. From the second you start making it you're focussing on the end result, strengthening your will, and making a candle that will be far more effective than a mass produced bought one. Don't get me wrong I'm not saying bought ones are ineffective, for with the right workings they will bring results too, but with one you made yourself you will have gained a very strong head start to your desired result.

Perhaps the easiest candle to make is the rolled beeswax variety. This really is simplicity itself. You can buy sheets of beeswax from many good craft shops. They are usually about six inches square and have a honeycomb look to them. All you have to do is buy some wick from the same store (The staff will give you any help you need in choosing the correct thickness of wick) then once you're back home, put the beeswax sheet in a warm, but not hot place, this will help make it a little more supple. Then when your ready place a length of wick along one edge, leaving about half an inch protruding at one end gently roll up the sheet, so the wick is now in the middle. Trim the protruding wick to the desired length and there you have it.

Now admittedly you will be limited to the natural beeswax colour with this type, but should you need to add some colour for the type of working your undertaking why not tie a piece of coloured ribbon round it. The end result can be quite stunning, as well as effective. For those of you who are a little more adventurous and want to have their candles coloured right through, then there really is only one way of doing this, and that's by using melted wax. Now this isn't complicated and you don't need to buy tons of equipment to have a go. For this example I'm going to show you how to make a simple coloured pillar type candle.

First the things you will need to buy.

1. A bag of refined beaded paraffin wax granules. Don't go mad you only need a small bag to start with unless you're planning on making several.

2. A small amount of Stearin, This is an additive again in granule form that helps dissolve the wax dye you will be using. It also hardens the wax in the candle, aids release from your mould, and produces a longer burning candle.

3. Some wick. To decide which wick to buy you will have to measure the diameter of the mould you will be using. Wicks are graded in ½ inch sizes, so if your mould is 31/2 inches in diameter you need a wick graded at 31/2". If you don't use the right size wick your candle will not burn correctly.

4. A dye disk of the colour of your choice.

5. A small amount of mould seal. I've tried using alternatives but this is the best stuff to use. Now all the above will come to just a few pounds and you will have enough to make several candles, so long as you're not making enormous ones.

Everything else you need you will probably have round the house.

You will need the following.

1. An old pan for melting the wax in.

2. A jam, candle or deep fat thermometer. (If you don't have one you will need to buy one)

3. A mould. You can use your imagination here, so long as the inside of the mould is smooth and the neck is no smaller than the base (so the candle can come out) you can use anything that will withstand the heat of the hot wax. I have used old yoghurt cartons, plastic tubs etc. Some of those small soft drinks bottles can give an interesting effect, but you will have to cut off the neck before use. The shaped bases make an unusual top to a candle. You may find the sides are unstable once the neck is removed but if you place it in a container filled with sand, this will help it to keep its shape.

Once you've got everything together the fun can start. Firstly take your mould and stand it in a washing up bowl (or similar) holding the mould down fill the bowl with water to the level where you will be filling the mould with wax ( I usually leave about ½ an inch from the top). Remove the mould and dry it then make a small hole in the centre of its base (Keep it small, it wants to be just large enough to feed the wick through)

Next take a length of wick (of the right grade) push it up through the base of the mould and tie the end to a stick or pencil. Place the stick across the mouth of the mould and pull the wick tight through the base.

Now you need to get a little of the mould seal and pack it tight round the wick as it protrudes through the base of the mould. This will stop the hot wax from running out. The mould seal can affect a wick if not all removed at the end of the candle making process, causing it not to burn correctly. I've found that careful removal works ok but to be sure you could dip the end of the wick in hot wax before you start sealing with the mould seal. This will ensure the wick stays clean. Once you've sealed the mould you can then cut the wick leaving about ½ an inch sticking out of the base of the mould.

Now stand your mould in an old dish. This is just in case the mould seal does not hold, it does sometimes happen and I've spent many happy times cleaning wax off the kitchen work surface, so be prepared just in case!

Now it's time to melt some wax. As a rough guide you require about 12 level tablespoons of wax beads to. make a candle 2"x 2" x 2.5" Basic maths will enable you to work out how much you will need for different sizes, don't worry if you do a little too much because you can always save what you don't use and melt down again at a later date.

Put your quantity of wax in the pan and slowly melt to a temperature of 185 degrees F. (85 degrees C)

Whilst melting the wax take your dye disk and cut off a small piece for use. As a guide one sixteenth of a disc will be ample to colour a candle of the above dimensions, Put your dye to one side and measure out the Stearin you will need (one level tablespoon of Stearin to one sixteenth of a dye block) again put this to one side with the dye.

Once the wax has melted and reached the desired temperature add the Stearin and dye and mix well until dissolved. Once the wax has reached 195 degrees F (91 degrees C) pour it carefully into the mould to within ½ and inch of the top. Let it stand for about 30 seconds then place the mould carefully into the water bath. If it tries to float put a small weight on top to keep it down. Don't let any water get into the mould.

After about 15 minutes check your candle and look to see if a well has appeared in the centre of the surface of the wax. If it has remove the candle from the water and break the surface of the wax (I use a toothpick) Heat some of your remaining wax to 180 degrees F, and then top up the candle. Make sure you don't fill up too much or the wax will run down the inside of the mould edge and make the candle impossible to remove, just fill the depression. On larger candles it may be necessary to top up more than once.

Place the candle back in the water bath. Once the candle is completely cold it will be set hard. Remove the mould seal from the base and turn it upside down and tap it on the palm of your hand. It should slide out. If it doesn't place it in a fridge for 30 minutes then try again. When it is ready the candle will slip out easily.

Well that's it, nothing complicated. But do remember do not over heat wax. Never leave wax melting on a stove unattended. To get a shine to a finished candle you can gently polish it with a small wad made from nylon tights. This is of course a basic candle but even with these I get an enormous amount of pleasure and weave great magic. Once you've got the knack you can get more adventurous and start adding scents and I even add dried herbs relevant to the magic I'm undertaking. You really can let your imagination run wild and be as creative as you wish. I would suggest buying a practical guide to candle making if you wish to take your candle crafting further though. You'll find they are full of useful tips and good ideas. I can assure you that you will see a difference in your candle magic when you make your own.

Paul Haddon